Many issues with the Polaris Ranger Mid-Size electrical system stem from the battery. In addition to old, worn out, batteries causing problems, cold weather is a notorious battery killer. Even if you don’t have a heated shop to keep your Ranger in during those chilly winter months, there are still things you can do to keep your battery running strong. Some riders run car batteries with booster cables, disconnecting the cables when not in use. A better solution, however, is to run a secondary battery. If you get yourself two AGM batteries with a voltage sensing isolator, you’ll be plowing, winching, and running right as rain no matter how cold it gets outside.
Grounding issues are another common battery killer. Understanding Mid-Size fault codes will definitely help in that regard, allowing you to narrow down the issue to specific areas of the electrical system. Even if you’re able to narrow down the issue, it may still take a lot of work to find the specific wire or harness that is touching metal or burnt. Unplugging harnesses at both ends and testing them one wire at a time may be time consuming, but in many cases it’s the best way if you don’t want to replace complete harnesses and plugs. If you do start to mess around with the electric workings of your Polaris Mid-Size, make sure to get an electric model manual for guidance.
Rather than fixing issues after they arise, preventative measures can be taken to proactively deter electric problems on your Polaris Ranger. For example, slapping some dielectric grease on all electric plugs and spark plugs can help prevent water and mud from cutting out the flow of electricity across the system. WD-40 is another temp fix that can help -- especially for a cracked or faulty sealed coil. An aftermarket airbox can also stop mud and water from getting on the mass airflow sensor, and unlie dielectric grease and WD-40, airbox upgrades are more permanent.
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