Although UTV brake pads are the most common brake component to wear out -- especially if your machine goes through the mud and sand on a regular basis -- brake rotors, brake calipers, brake fluid and other constituent parts of the Mid-Size Polaris Ranger braking system can break down from time to time as well. For those who go faster than a snail’s pace and don’t like using trees and bushes to slow down, replacement brake parts are obligatory for a properly-functioning Mid-Size Polaris Ranger. You can try solid rotors and brass brake pads if you traverse a lot of mud or water, and both will also help for rigs with big lifts and tires that quickly chew through traditional pads. Running an EBS clutch on your machine will also help a ton. Unlike non-EBS clutches, an EBS clutch won’t “freewheel” when you take your foot off of the gas, but rather, will actively slow down the vehicle.

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Like brake pad replacements and clutch upgrades, ensuring that the brake caliper on your Ranger is working properly will also help your machine stop when you want it to. Adjusting your calipers will prevent them from rattling and potentially getting damaged, but busted piston seals or brake pads that go too far can also cause the brake caliper to break or leak fluid. The easiest option to fix a leaking caliper is to just get a new caliper. However, you can buy replacement seals, pistons/cups, and rebuild kits that are cheaper than buying a completely new caliper, but require a lot more work. If you do go with the caliper rebuild kit, make sure to use dielectric grease and not rubber silicone to seal it up. And when you’re done, you can fill it with water to see if it holds.

If your Mid-Size brakes aren’t working as they should, you can also try bleeding them. To do this, you start with the caliber farthest away from the master cylinder -- you will have to do all calibers. It will help if you elevate the caliber that you are bleeding so that the air will rise easier towards the bleed valve. Keep an eye on your reservoir and do not let it go low so that it sucks in more air. Pump the pedal a few times and hold it down. While the pedal is depressed someone will need to open the bleeder valve momentarily and then close it before you release the pedal. If you release the pedal while the valve is open, you will suck more air into the system. You do not pump the pedal until it's hard, it doesn't work that way. Just give it a few pumps, open and close the mouth, let off the pedal and repeat. It is a slow process,  but you could alternatively get a vacuum pump from a parts store to make it go much quicker. You basically put it on the bleeder valve and it pulls new fluid through the system until you have no more air bubbles.

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