Non-OEM coolants can also be more effective -- especially if you live in areas where the temperature doesn’t go below zero. You can cut back on the antifreeze or run coolants like Evans Waterless or Water Wetter. These coolants don’t expand like regular coolants and can help keep things a few degrees cooler -- you just have to make sure to follow the directions properly.
One problem with the Crew cooling system is the temp sensor going out or showing a wild range of readings. A few things can cause this, but a common reason is a belt. If your belt is getting worn, it will put your machine into limp mode, but you should be able to shut the key off then restart and be good again. What happens is when the belt gets worn too much, the engine will turn faster than it should. The ECM has a set of parameters programmed in it for engine rpm versus mph, so once your engine turns more rpm then it should at a set mph, the ECM will put the engine in limp mode to keep from causing engine damage. Turn the key off and it will reset until you pass those set parameters again.
In addition to keeping the internals of your Crew cool, you may also want to keep yourself and your fellow passengers cool in the cab. Some Polaris Ranger Crews -- like the Northstar Edition -- come stock with air conditioning units, but other models can be retrofitted with one as well. All you need is the dash kit that replaces the center cup holders, screen, and wiring kit. Some riders have expressed mild concerns about the condenser being mounted in the front instead of under the driver’s side seat like it was in older models, but the best place to mount the condenser is, in fact, the front -- the more air flow the better. The only thing you need to make sure to do -- especially if you ride in a lot of mud -- is to keep the condenser and other exposed components clean. The more mud the higher the head pressure in the AC system.