Front Differential

Like all UTV parts and components, the front differentials on the Full-Size Polaris Ranger are by no means impervious to breaking. Whether you own a Full-Size 1000 XP, a 570 Full-Size, or any Full-Size Ranger in between, you’ll likely have to repair or replace one -- but likely more -- aspect of your machine’s front differential. From damaged u-joints to worn out carrier bearings, the role the front differential plays within the UTV, as well as its position, make it susceptible to damage more so than other components of the side-by-side. If you find yourself needing some front differential parts for your Full-Size Ranger, you’ve come to the right place. Most dealers, for instance, will charge in excess of $65 for a replacement u-joint, which is more than you would pay for the same part in a three-quarter ton truck. Instead of going with standard Polaris u-joints, aftermarket suppliers like Sandcraft and PFA make quality u-joints that work great in the Full-Size Polaris Ranger.

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So you’ve got the front differential parts that need replacing for your Full-Size Ranger, but how do you get the differential out? The process may vary slightly depending on the year and model of your Full-Size Ranger, but generally, you start by removing the axle on the left side. Subsequently, remove the entire suspension on the right side. Undo the vent tube, undo all the applicable wire harness, and remove the four bolts holding the differential in place. You should now be able to pull differential out of the side where you removed the upper A-arms, and you can remove the driveshaft as well if you need once the differential is out by knocking out the roll pin on the drive shaft. If you have the older body style, you will likely need to take off the front bumper to pull the driveshaft out through the front of the machine. And while you have everything apart, you may want to consider upgrading to a billet case or a complete billet differential -- like those by a company called HD Extreme -- that come ready to be bolted on. You could also upgrade to a metal Sprague cage, an HD pin, and new inputs like the Hub Hornet by Optimum Offroad to keep the drive hubs aligned so you don't have random 4x4 engagement and to keep everything straight at full suspension drop.

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