Some Full-Size Polaris Rangers have had problems with their rig going into limp mode due to overheating. But they should in no way go into limp mode at lower temperatures. For example, a Full-Size 800 CP will limit the throttle (making it ride like the brake is on) at 235 degrees, and will shut down at 260 degrees. If you for some reason get an air bubble in the cooling system, when you shut the machine off it will start pushing coolant out the radiator overflow. Once the coolant levels get low, then it will start overheating. When you have no air in the system, you can about set your clock to what temperatures the fan will come on and go off. If it starts varying, you know somethings up. Of course under certain circumstances the temperature may go a little higher -- like when hauling heavy loads or climbing hills -- but you should have a general feel for when your radiator fans turn on and off.
Dirty radiators are a common culprit for overheating, and you can get specific ECM tunes to turn the radiator fans on at lower temperatures which can help -- the Gilomen tune is a good one for instance. Specific Full-Size years and models -- like the 2013 Full-Size Polaris Ranger -- are known to have issues with the 30 amp circuit breaker under the hood just behind the fuse block in the main harness. This malfunctioning breaker allows the fan to still work, but at the wrong speed, intermittently causing the temperature to climb out of control. If you replace this breaker the issue is usually solved. Alternatively, you can also wire your fan to a switch, and if wired properly it can be ran full time, set to normal fan operation based on the temperature sensors, or shut off completely for deep water crossings. When it comes to Polaris Ranger and UTV cooling systems in general, simple solutions are often the most effective. So if you’re having issues with the cooling system in your Full-Size Polaris Ranger, give us a call and we’ll help you get to the bottom of it.
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