From worn out brake pads and warped brake rotors to ruptured brake lines and malfunctioning brake sensors, when it comes to the braking system of the Full-Size Polaris Ranger, there are many areas where problems can occur. And while there are some preventative measures that can be taken to avoid a few of these issues, the longer and harder you ride your Full-Size Ranger, the more likely you are to experience complications with one or more of your machine’s braking components. Even if you run top-of-the-line brass brake pads and heat-treated carbon steel brake rotors, you’re never impervious to brake issues in your Full-Size Ranger.


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Brake sensors, for example -- and the switch operated by the brake pedal specifically -- can cause your Ranger to not start. If your machine is low on brake fluid it won’t start either as there’s not enough fluid to set the switch off. Regarding the brake sensor, if you’re in a pinch or on the trail you can get it to start by unplugging and jumping the plug on the front of the master cylinder. Behind the driver’s side tire behind the master cylinder there is a 2-pin plug. Simply put some baling wire or another piece of metal across to jump the connection and you should be good to go.

Another common issue people face with the braking system of the Full-Size Polaris Ranger is repairing ruptured brake lines. Assuming you have a helper, fixing the brake lines should be pretty straightforward. Just pump the brakes and hold the brake pedal down while the other person opens the bleeder. Then close the bleeder without the other person releasing the brake pedal. Then repeat until the lines are bled. Start at the right rear then left rear then right front then left front. As a general rule, you should always start at the farthest point from the master cylinder and work your way closer. If you’ve tried leaving the bleeder and reservoir cap open, used a hand pump or vacuum bleeder, and the brake pedal is still not activating, try using a stick to push the pedal down and leave it overnight. Let it off, pump it, and repeat overnight again. Alternatively, another trick is to hook up a hose on the bleeder, loosen the bleeder and, and put the hose in a bottle of brake fluid. Pump away for a while then tighten up and see what you get. You might have to do it at all four corners at the same time if it doesn’t work the first time. If the master cylinder went dry from the broken line and you pump the pedal with no fluid, you could damage the seals in the master cylinder. If you can pinch off the rubber lines to the calipers with vice grips, you should have a rock hard pedal. They also make plugs you can screw into the ports on the master cylinder to isolate it. If all else fails, feel free to contact us here at Everything Polaris Ranger and we’ll be happy to walk you through steps to get the brakes on your Full-Size Polaris Ranger functioning like they should.

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